Exploring the Majestic Serra da Estrela in Winter
In the heart of winter, traversing the stunning Serra da Estrela in Portugal is a test of both skill and appreciation for nature’s artistry. With my guide, João Pedro Sousa, I embark on a journey that is as much about connecting with the landscape as it is about the physical challenge.
A Journey Through the Snow
As we navigate the snowy terrain, João Pedro expertly hunts for mariolas—small rock cairns that mark our path. His words resonate with wisdom: “The landscape changes every day, so you have to learn how to read it afresh.” This sentiment encapsulates the essence of winter hiking: an ever-evolving canvas painted by nature.
Behind us lies the quaint town of Manteigas, nestled within the glacial Zêzere valley, a place steeped in history, dating back to the 12th century. Ahead, the towering Torre stands proudly, Portugal’s highest peak, offering a glimpse of the region’s diverse offerings.
The Allure of Casa das Penhas Douradas
Our base for exploration, the Casa das Penhas Douradas, is a beautifully renovated hotel that echoes the charm of Alpine lodges. With over 100 miles of trails at our doorstep, the opportunity to immerse oneself in nature is abundant.
- Unique Architecture: The hotel boasts birch-panelled rooms with expansive windows that invite the breathtaking mountain air inside.
- Historical Significance: Once a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients, it reflects a bygone era where health seekers sought the region’s curative properties.
- Luxurious Amenities: From a sauna to a Nordic-style hot tub, the hotel caters to relaxation after a day of adventure.
Cultural Revival through Craftsmanship
João Pedro also highlights the local commitment to preserving traditional crafts, particularly the burel fabric, made from sheep’s wool, which has found new life through the efforts of local artisans. Isabel Costa, one of the hotel’s founders, passionately shares her mission to revitalize this craft, which was on the brink of extinction.
- Community Impact: The reopening of the Burel Factory has brought jobs back to the region, encouraging young people to stay.
- Vibrant Designs: The factory now produces colorful, contemporary items that appeal to modern tastes while preserving tradition.
- Artisanship: Generations of local women contribute their skills, ensuring the craft is passed down.
Exploring Manteigas
As I stroll through Manteigas, the charming cobbled streets and snow-dusted architecture create a picturesque scene. While the town may be small, it is rich in culinary delights and local crafts.
- Local Cuisine: Don’t miss the pastel de feijoca and the creamy Serra de Estrela cheese.
- Outdoor Activities: In summer, Manteigas transforms into a hub for hiking, biking, and adventure sports.
Final Thoughts
Winter in Manteigas offers a retreat into nature where one can slow down and appreciate the serene beauty of the mountains. The blend of rich history, cultural revival, and stunning landscapes makes this destination a hidden gem in Portugal’s tourism landscape.
If you wish to delve deeper into the charm of Serra da Estrela and Manteigas, I encourage you to read the original article here.

