Freewheeling family fun in the Netherlands: a cycling and camping trip along the Maas river | Cycling holidays

As early as I can remember, I’ve always got a thrill out of poring over a map, tracing wavy river lines with my fingers, roads that connect and borders that divide – all the routes I could take. The freedom of heading out on my bike and not knowing where I’m going to pitch my tent that night. Now that my children are aged seven and nine, I wanted to introduce them to the liberation of this kind of adventure. They adore a day out on their bikes, but this was to be our first multiday bike trip as a family of four, so it was crucial to find a route easy and fun enough to captivate them.

The Maasroute follows the course of the Maas River as it meanders for 300 miles (484km) through the Netherlands, from the inland city of Maastricht to the Hook of Holland, then loops back to Rotterdam. It forms part of the much longer Meuse cycle route (EuroVelo 19) that stretches from the source of the Maas (or Meuse as it’s known in France) on the Langres plateau, travelling through the French and Belgian Ardennes before crossing into the Netherlands.

Our plan was to cycle the 100-mile stretch from Maastricht to Dordrecht over four days, traversing expansive floodplains dotted with castles, windmills and villages of thatched houses, crisscrossing the Maas on charming little ferries and pitching our tent at family-friendly campsites. This being the Netherlands, the terrain is predominantly pancake-flat with protected bike paths and low-traffic roads, making it an ideal first bike trip location for budding cyclists.

For route planning, we used a foldout Dutch cycling map for perspective and nostalgia, in combination with the essential and free LF-routes long-distance cycling app. As we were living in Leiden, we took the train to Maastricht and stayed in a hostel overnight. We carried all our camping gear on rented Dutch city bikes in small everyday panniers, with the overflow in a backpack so the children had nothing to haul. The Hook of Holland is on the Maasroute, so it’s possible to bring your own gear and bikes on an overnight voyage across the North Sea from Harwich.

We set off from Maastricht in the morning sunshine full of first-day energy and cycled five blocks to Sint Servaasbrug, which is an unmissable seven-arched limestone pedestrian and cycle bridge, built in the 1280s to replace a Roman river crossing. This detour, and a not-so-quick stop at the supermarket for picnic ingredients, made getting out of town hairy. However, we soon found ourselves leaving the city and following reassuringly wide cycle paths out into the idyllic water meadows of Limburg, with the Maas as our constant companion.

As the day wore on the heat escalated, so to keep the children on side, we stopped for mango ice lollies followed directly by gelato at Terras Maasoever at Urmond, a breezy bankside restaurant serving broodjes and biertjes (sandwiches and beers) on a terrace overlooking a small river ferry crossing to Belgium.

By the time we arrived at our first campsite at the Jachthaven de Maasterp, in the picturesque village of Ohé en Laak, we were wilting. Luckily, the marina’s Brasserie Knaag & Co didn’t disappoint, with lakeside views, swimming beaches and playgrounds, so we could cool off and toast the success of the girls’ first 30-mile ride.

The next morning we set off early, slathered in sun cream and with spirits high, to cross the Maasplassen, a vast network of human-made lakes that has become a popular destination for water sports. It felt as if we were cycling through a Van Gogh painting as an endless parade of sailing boats and sloops cruised by. After a coffee at the Grand Café Aemilius in Maasbracht – served with a side shot of amaretto and topped with whipped cream – we powered along the straight road to Roermond in the midday sun (I credit the amaretto). Our goal was the aqua park at the Landal de Lommerbergen holiday park where we enjoyed a carefree afternoon racing down slides and plunging into swimming pools.

With bedtimes out of the window, we rode the final stretch of that day’s route at 10pm, enjoying the cool evening air. With another 30-mile ride under our belts, we waited in happy silence with two lone night cyclists for the ferry to Kessel, with the backdrop of Kasteel de Keverberg, a hilltop castle that dates back to AD950, on the bank across the river. Giddy from the day’s adventures, we set up our tent among the trees at Natuurcamping en Camperplaats Boezeven in the last of the light.

The next day, a combination of heat and tired legs persuaded us that we would have to adjust our itinerary if we were going to make it to Dordrecht. Remembering the objective of fun with the children rather than mileage, we decided to catch a train from Venlo to Breda. (Fortunately, taking bikes on trains in the Netherlands is straightforward, with dedicated carriages that can take up to four bikes outside weekday rush hours for €7.50 each). Disembarking at Breda, we navigated our way to the Biesbosch national park, Europe’s largest freshwater tidal zone, where our pitch at the Kurenpolder campsite in Hank came with a sunset view of the lake.

The key to a successful family cycling adventure is to strike the right balance between the hard work of pedalling and relaxation. The next morning we visited the Biesbosch climbing park, where our girls enjoyed a couple of laps around the high ropes course. A win, but it meant delaying our start time. We thought the afternoon would hold an easy cycle ride across the national park, but only a few miles in, my partner Andrew had a total tyre and tube blowout, which required expert help to repair. We had to make Dordrecht that evening, so I pressed ahead with the girls, cycling along the tops of dykes and past an endless stream of vibrant blue and green creeks and willow flood forests. Eventually, Andrew caught up with us at the Biesbosch Museum terrace for a cold drink and the early evening ferry across the river to Dordrecht, the oldest and one of the most picturesque Dutch cities, with a blend of gothic, Renaissance and Dutch golden age architecture.

Standing on the deck in the breeze, balancing our bikes on that final river crossing, we were low on energy but full of joy and satisfaction. The girls loved the wide bike paths that cut across pristine meadows and the freedom of camping somewhere different each night, but mostly they were exhausted – from days in the sun, pedalling, climbing, swimming and late nights snuggled together as a family in our tent. I liked doing the trip as a family team, and that the girls were learning to take pleasure in doing the gritty, challenging things in life. It will serve them well.

If I were planning the trip again, I would allow at least a week and I might concede a detour to Efteling theme park near Tilburg. The Maasroute was uniformly high quality, beautiful and easy to use. The signposting was so impressive at every turn that it was hardly necessary to refer to the map, freeing you up to be completely present on the ride. The route is well served by campsites, hotels and public transport, so it’s straightforward to adapt your adventure along the way to suit your family’s cycling capacity. However, this does require constant planning and puzzle-solving. Set expectations for a fun, challenging adventure rather than a relaxed holiday. And build in lots of ice-cream stops.

The writer and family stayed at the Green Elephant hostel in Maastricht (family room €78). The sauna and morning coffee were included. Be prepared for numerous small ferry crossings on the Maasroute. None require booking, but a few require cash. Find detailed information on the Maasroute and app at nederlandfietsland.nl