Carmarthenshire: A Car-Free Escape into Nature
As I embark on a journey from Swansea to Carmarthen, the view from the train is simply breathtaking. Looking out from my window, I can see vast sandy estuaries, a curlew standing majestically by the water, and an egret gracefully gliding over the wetlands. The journey itself—spanning six hours and involving four trains—may be long, but the promise of adventure on foot is invigorating.
A Perfect Car-Free Destination
Carmarthenshire stands out as an exemplary car-free travel destination, featuring:
- Picturesque Railways: The scenic routes offer stunning views that enhance the travel experience.
- Extensive Bus Network: Convenient transportation options make it easy to explore the area.
- Long-Distance Paths: Ideal for walkers and cyclists, with the newly opening 13-mile Tywi Valley Path linking key locations.
Visiting just before Saint David’s Day, I’m greeted by a cascade of blooming daffodils, encapsulating the essence of a quintessentially Welsh experience filled with castles, local delicacies like cockles, and hearty cawl.
Exploring the Beauty of Ferryside
Setting off from Ferryside station, the view of the 12th-century Llansteffan Castle across the estuary is awe-inspiring. The Three Rivers hotel and spa, my accommodation for the night, is conveniently located just a ten-minute walk away. Dropping off my bag, I feel a rush of excitement as I prepare to walk towards Kidwelly, just five miles down the path.
Winding Through Nature
The trails are alive with the beauty of nature. I find myself:
- Winding through mossy woods adorned with snowdrops and primroses.
- Experiencing a sudden burst of sunshine illuminating the distant sea.
- Encountering delightful wildlife sounds from the marshes and nearby rivers.
I’m soon winding down through snowdrop-beaded woods, where primroses glimmer in banks of ferns and bluebells are sprouting.
Historic Kidwelly Castle
Kidwelly Castle (£8.50 for adults, £5.90 for kids) is a fascinating maze of historical architecture. As I explore its walls and towers, I recall the brave Gwenllian, who led a Welsh army against the Normans nearby.
After my exploration, I enjoy a well-deserved break at Y Barbican, a cozy new café that opened recently, serving delicious cakes that are worth the uphill trek.
Relaxing at the Spa
After a long day of exploration, I return to my hotel for some relaxation at the spa. The mural by the pool, crafted by owner Jackie Cavill, mirrors the stunning views of Llansteffan Castle, perfectly framed by the evening sky.
Discovering the National Botanic Garden of Wales
The following morning, I stroll along the beach and make my way to the National Botanic Garden of Wales (NBGW). Here, car-free visitors enjoy a 50% discount on entry. Despite the gloomy drizzle, the gardens are vibrant with life:
- Blossoming plants and cheerful birdsong surround me.
- The Great Glasshouse showcases over 1,000 Mediterranean plant species.
- Delicious food options await, including a delightful rarebit in the café.
Final Reflections
As I wrap up my journey back to Carmarthen, I reflect on the enchanting experiences Carmarthenshire has to offer. The landscape is rich with history and nature, making it a perfect getaway for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
For those interested in exploring this beautiful region, I encourage you to read the original news article here.

