Bad news for me: I turn 28 this week, and I don’t feel particularly wiser. I do feel older, though. So, as you read this, you can be sure that I am probably quite drunk on sparkling wine. There’s scarcely a better excuse than a birthday, but I think we can agree that what you’re likely to be drinking at any such event will vary greatly, depending on whether or not the birthday in question is your own.
It’s always good to start off with something sparkling, which is why, for the past few years, I’ve treated myself to a bottle of Billecart-Salmon in bed, but I think I might try something a bit different this year. My mind turns to Sip Champagnes, an independent, online retailer that connects consumers with the grower champagnes of the region. It even has a sub-£45 section, which, considering that many of the grandes marques are now pushing or exceeding £50 (eek!), provides a chance to taste something new for the same price or even less than usual.
Or, for even less, there’s crémant, which is basically for when you’re having people over and buying en masse. Crémant is sparkling wine made in the same méthode traditonelle (traditional method) as champagne, during which the wine undergoes two fermentations to make it sparkling. An initial base wine is made and fermented into a dry wine, then, in a process known as tirage, yeast and sugar are added to kickstart a secondary fermentation, after which the wine is sealed with a crown cap.
This secondary fermentation creates CO₂ (for the bubbles) and lees (spent yeast cells), which collect in the neck and give the wine its trademark biscuity flavour. These are then frozen and lifted off the top, at which point the bottle is sealed with the cork and cage we associate with sparkling wines. It’s the same method as champagne, but crémant costs far, far less.
Or how about something completely different? As I explored in a column earlier this year, fine sparkling cider is fast becoming my “why the hell not?” item for moments that demand marking with a coupe of something wonderful. “Like winemaking, correct terroir and climate are essential ingredients for fine cider-making,” says Nick Showering of Showerings Cider. “You can blend vintages in a similar way to champagne to achieve a house style, and that’s something even the sommeliers at the likes of L’Enclume are now pouring.”
And while cider certainly still has some catching up to do with champagne, I don’t see why it can’t be enjoyed in similar contexts. Swig it from the bottle in bed while opening your presents, or pour it into an oyster. Roll on 28.
Four bottles worthy of any celebration
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Crémant de Loire £12.50 (or £11 with a Nectar card), 12%. Perfectly serviceable crémant that’s a good option in a pinch.
Crémant d’Alsace Extra Brut Prestige, Domaine Paul Ginglinger 2022 £15.50 The Wine Society, 12.5%. A favourite producer from last year’s trip to Alsace. Bright orchard fruit with a clean finish.
Showerings Triple Vintage Cider 6x375ml £30 for 6 x 375ml bottles) Showerings Cider Mill, 6.8%. A blend of three vintages (2021, 2018 and 2017) creates a dry, complex cider.
Remy Lequeux-Mercier G4.2 NV £37 Sip Champagnes, 12%. A blanc de noirs that’s unusually predominantly pinot meunier. Persistent and nutty.