Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, new to the creative directorship of By Malene Birger, might say that she feels like everything is a “work in progress,” but the brand’s spring collection is a sophisticated and polished one. In part that’s because she and the team are, for now, hewing closely to the soft minimalist codes put in place by Maja Dixdotter.
Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt wanted this season’s clothes to deliver “holiday vibes,” which they do. There is a cooling airiness to a crisp striped shirting set styled with a bikini, and to an attractive all-white ensemble consisting of a dress with broderie anglaise at the neck and down its open sides, worn over pants with the same detail at the hem. For more dressed-up evenings, there are form-fitting popcorn dresses. Elsewhere, the team revisited a past technique of using a voluminous material of many threads to create movement. This look is offered in blue, a nod, perhaps, to Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s personal preference for color. “My vision is to make BMB easier, more wearable, with a little bit more fun to it, because that’s me. My personality is that I feel like I’ll probably never grow up,” she said.
There is undeniable charm to a scallop-edged camel robe coat. And the creative director was excited about adding a print to the mix, however subtle. The decision to make changes at the company at a steady pace rather than a gallop was a wise one. “I was a professional horse rider before, so I’m used to performing in front of a lot of people and winning, but also losing, falling off, and getting back on,” said Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt. “I learn every day, but I am very optimistic about where we are going.”