This Mountain Range Is One of Montana’s Best-kept Secrets—With Some of the Best Hiking in the State

While popular tourist destinations like Big Sky, Whitefish, and Glacier National Park might top your list of places to go in Montana, they’re far from the only ones worth visiting. As you shift your focus east, specifically toward the central part of the state, you’ll find there are dozens of other small towns, rivers, and mountain ranges to see, each as interesting as the next. On a recent weeklong road trip, I discovered a few of these hidden games—one of which was the Crazy Mountains, a dramatic mountain range defined by the inimitable ruggedness and raw, natural beauty that are deeply woven into Montana’s identity.

“The Crazy Mountains, or ‘the Crazies,’ seem like they rise out of nowhere,” Finn Cullen, the co-founder of Crazy Mountain Ventures, a nonprofit outdoor education company based in Livingston, tells Travel + Leisure. “They are jagged peaks in the middle of wide-open rangeland, totally unexpected and gorgeous.” Often referred to as an “island range,” the Crazies are about 30 miles long and 15 miles wide, and dozens of those aforementioned peaks reach over 10,000 feet in elevation; Crazy Peak, which measures at around 11,214 feet tall, is the highest. “There aren’t many roads or trailheads, which makes it feel pretty remote. It’s the kind of place where you can really disappear into the backcountry and unplug,” he says.

Long before pioneers and ranchers of European descent made their way west, creating a landscape that Adam Wagner of Sweetcast Angler describes as a “checkerboard pattern” made up of “private property intermixed with public lands,” the area was part of the traditional land base for the people of the Apsaalooké Nation, commonly referred to as the Crow. (The “Crow” name stems from white settlers misinterpreting Apsáalooke, which translates to “children of the long-beaked bird.”)

“Throughout our Crow history, men and women have gone to the Crazy Mountains to seek visions, to fast, [and] to pray,” says Luella Brien, tourism director with the Crow Nation Office of Tourism. But, she notes, there is a common misconception about the Crazies, which some have said are especially sacred to the Apsaalooké. “All of our land bases are held sacred. To the Crow people, not one mountain range, not one valley, not one body of water holds more significance than the other. They’re all held in the same regard,” she explains.

With that in mind, she asks travelers coming to this region to be responsible and mindful. “Understand this is a place of reverence. When you step on Crow land, that land is sacred … Conduct yourself in a manner that is appropriate, similar to how you’d conduct yourself if you’d walk into a church, temple, or synagogue,” she says.

“If you visit the area, please do so with a stewardship mindset,” echoes Cullen. In order to enjoy the wilderness of the Crazy Mountains—and all of its forests, alpine lakes, and wildlife (including mountain goats, elk, black bear, and moose)—for decades to come, it’s best to heed the “Leave No Trace” principles and do your research before heading into the mountains.

Where to Stay

Sweet Grass Ranch

“When visiting Montana, it’s best to stay at one of the incredible guest ranches, lodges, or hotels rather than a short-term vacation rental. To stay in a place where you can share stories, a meal, or a drink with fellow travelers, as well as locals, will give you a more authentic Montana experience,” says Cullen. You can find just that at Sweet Grass Ranch, a family-owned and operated guest ranch in Sweet Grass Canyon, about an hour outside Big Timber. Rustic but cozy, the ranch is a haven for those looking for more than a trail ride. Each day is spent traversing the varied landscape, summiting peaks, riding to waterfalls, and getting a true taste of the West.

The Murray Hotel

“The Murray Hotel was built in 1904 and is a historic landmark in Livingston. There are about 20 rooms that are all unique, and you are close to Gil’s Goods, 2nd Street Bistro, and the lively Murray Bar for coffee, dinner, or live music,” says Cullen. Each room is outfitted with air conditioning and Wi-Fi, and select accommodations are pet-friendly.

Halfmoon Campground

Wagner says there are many places to camp within the Crazies, but adds that it’s important to “check out the details of specific spots to make sure it provides the opportunities needed—size, accessibility, etc.” Halfmoon Campground, for example, has 12 campsites and does not use a reservation system (it’s first come, first served). 

Best Things to Do

Plan a day hike.

“The Crazies are rugged and amazing—pick a trail and go for it. But be sure to pack your hiking essentials,” says Cullen. According to Erin Dringman, the manager of Sweet Grass Ranch, “There are numerous public trails out of Halfmoon Campground up Big Timber Canyon, north of Big Timber.” She’s partial to the Twin Lakes trek, which she describes as “a true alpine lake hike in one of the prettiest places on earth.” Wagner recommends “Blue Lake on the east side,” which is also reached from Halfmoon Campground. Cullen adds that you can get a copy of Crazy Mountains Outdoor Recreation Map (available in print and digital versions) for even more hiking trails.

Spend time in Livingston and Big Timber, two of the range’s gateway towns.

“This island range is surrounded by small towns, each with its own personality and offerings,” says Wagner. There are two, however, to definitively add to your list. “Big Timber and Livingston are both small Western mountain towns full of artsy shops, good eating and drinking, and the nicest people. They’re great bases for all your Montana activities, especially in the summer,” says Dringman. Cullen also adds that Livingston makes for a great starting point, as it’s just “about an hour and a half from the trailheads.”

Attend a rodeo.

Before booking your plane tickets or renting a car, see if you can align your trip with a local rodeo—a real Montana experience.  “Check out the annual rodeos in Wilsall in June, Big Timber the last weekend in June, and Livingston and Harlowton over the Fourth of July,” says Dringman.

Go swimming or fly fishing.

Montana and the Crazy Mountains might technically be landlocked, but there are also rivers, creeks, and alpine lakes for fishing and swimming. “There are only so many times in your life you’ll have the chance to swim in a pristine alpine lake surrounded by towering peaks. Seize the moment and take the plunge,” says Cullen. If you’re interested in fishing, both Sweetcast Angler in Big Timber and Yellowstone River Outfitters in Livingston will be able to point you in the right direction.

Join a horseback ride.

The views of the Crazy Mountain peaks from atop a horse at Sweet Grass Ranch are hard to beat, but if your schedule doesn’t allow for a weeklong vacation, there are a few other outfitters in the area to check out. “Wide Sky Adventures and Greycliff Creek Ranch also offer beautiful riding options closer to Big Timber,” says Dringman.

Where to Eat and Drink

Gil’s Goods

You’re not going to find restaurants in the Crazies themselves, but the gateway towns all have several charming stops to try before or after a day of hiking, horseback riding, swimming, or fishing. Gil’s Goods in Livingston is open for lunch and dinner, and the menu consists of hearty favorites, like wood-fired pizzas, burgers, and sandwiches.

Big Timber Bakery

Recommended by Dringman, Big Timber Bakery is the perfect place to start your day in the Crazy Mountains. You may even want to stash a couple of extra cinnamon rolls or scones in your backpack for a sweet mid-hike treat.

Ringling Bar

“In many of these small towns, the bar is the cultural center and may even offer food,” says Wagner. He specifically mentions Ringling Bar in the town of Ringling, which is just northwest of the Crazies. It’s a casual setup, and the menu includes hot dogs, hamburgers, and pulled pork sandwiches.

Two Dot Bar & Grill

For happy hour, Dringman has Two Dot Bar & Grill in the town of Twodot on her list. It’s your classic relaxing Western watering hole and restaurant, so don’t expect anything too fancy, and you’ll definitely want to take advantage of the photo op with the fun retro sign out front.

Best Time to Visit

“Summer is the best time to visit the Crazies, by far,” says Dringman. “These mountains don’t have any public skiing and aren’t recommended for winter sports unless you have an experienced local guide. Even then, winter recreation opportunities are limited because the Crazies aren’t developed.” That said, she recommends coming anytime between mid-June and mid-September, when “the creeks are full, wildlife is out and about, wildflowers are blooming, and the mountains are at their most hospitable.”

Cullen also warns that snow can arrive as soon as September and “often stays on the trails until mid-June,” so anyone interested in hiking or backpacking should plan their trip accordingly. “After September, brutal storms make travel tough unless you’re fully prepared for wet and wintery conditions. If you’re an experienced backcountry skier, you can brave the Crazies in the winter months, but be prepared for miles on a snowmobile or in the skin track to reach skiable terrain,” he adds.

How to Get There

Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (BZN) is the closest major airport to the Crazy Mountains. From there, it’s about a 40-minute drive to Livingston and a little over an hour to Big Timber. Of course, it will take you slightly longer if you’re headed to a ranch or campsite that’s more remote within the Crazies.

How to Get Around

Montana is not a state you can easily navigate via public transportation, so having your own car (or renting one) is necessary—but the drive is part of the experience. According to Dringman, a road trip to and around the Crazies is the best way to “make the most of seeing all that south-central Montana has to offer.” Visit small towns, stop at a local brewery or coffee shop, stretch your legs at a particularly scenic spot, and don’t be afraid to ask a local Montanan for advice on where to grab your next meal.