Frederick Anderson was his usual affable, exuberant self during a morning visit to his Manhattan studio and boutique. “But I’m not in a celebratory mood,” he said, explaining that his tempered approach to resort 2025 comes down to “this kind of malaise we have to deal with” amidst the current political landscape in the States. “Still, we need to feel like we’re moving on and living our lives.” That frame of mind led to a collection heavy on Fredrick’s signatures—lace, ruffles, and lots of black—but without the ornate embellishments that have marked previous outings.
Anderson tried his hand at nontraditional textile pairings for a number of black and white dresses, among them a boatneck gown with black lace spanning the décolletage and slinky bodice in white jersey. Another features an empire silhouette with a black beaded V-neck affixed to boho-esque, vine-embroidered tulle.
Anderson’s eponymous brand is just six years old, “but it’s now starting to really get resonance,” he said. “I really want to make sure my signature ideas are here, and I love jumpsuits; I could do a whole collection of jumpsuits.” This season he made one juxtaposing high-waist sequin pants with a buttery lambskin open-back halter. Both leather and vegan leather appear elsewhere in the collection—the former as triangular insets on a drop-waist dress and for the trim of a tweed blazer, and the latter on a stretch micro short and a shirred tie-front top.
A number of Anderson’s clients decamp for Palm Beach in the winter, and “there’s a new attitude happening down there,” he said. “They’re not putting on that Lilly Pulitzer as much.” Perhaps instead they’ll opt for Anderson’s oversized watercolor floral print, which he used for a flouncy A-line dress and a pair of high-waist trousers. While teal Bermuda shorts in duchess satin are vibrant, and a sheer gown bedecked with faux pearl beads is sexy, like the rest of range, they feel appropriate for the times. “I don’t care how you’re doing right now,” Anderson said of his restraint. “You really don’t want to be running around in hot pants and acting like the world is fabulous.”