Editor’s Note: This Dolce & Gabbana collection was presented in Milan in October 1997. It has been digitized as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document the history of fashion shows.
This week in Rome—not far from Vatican City where the newly appointed Pope Leo XIV resides—Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented an Alta Sartoria collection populated from beginning to end with “haute priests.” Some of these men wore looks inspired by ecclesiastical garb, others pieces embroidered with religious symbols.
Proof that the catholic imagination was present in Dolce & Gabbana’s work long before the Costume Institute’s 2018 “Heavenly Bodies” exhibition, is provided by the label’s fall 1997 ready-to-wear collection, which might have been titled Il Papa and the Hot Mamas.
At this show, inspired by the religious processions of Southern Italy, the sacred mixed with the profane, and austerity was contrasted by overtly luxe flourishes, such as fur collars and feathers (real and printed). In keeping with their perennial boy-meets-girl theme, sharp pinstriped suits shared space with sinuous corset gowns. Neckties even accessorized some of the more priestly looks. At this brand, holiness makes for good business.