Elegance has been one of the main recurring themes at the men’s collections this season. Many designers are grappling with what it means in a post-streetwear, post-covid world to dress with ease, sophistication and effortlessness. Soft tailoring, glitzy embellishment and pajama silhouettes abound.
A brand for whom elegance is not just a trend but part of its DNA is Bed j.w. Ford, whose floaty and romantic tailoring has been throwing dressed-up flair since its debut show back in 2016. Building on last season’s theme of “alternative elegance,” this tight spring collection was a continuation of Shinpei Yamagishi’s exploration of elegance rendered in clothing.
When asked what elegance means to him at his quaint presentation in Le Marais today, the designer smiled. “It’s a very difficult question for me to answer,” he sighed. “I’ve been searching for it for a long time. I have a strong desire for it and an image of elegance, but when I’m asked what it means, I run away.”
To make that image a reality, he drew inspiration from the easy nostalgia of Normal Rockwell. “When I look at his paintings, I think that even though I haven’t experienced that, they make me feel nostalgic and happy, I aimed to channel that mood in the collection,” he said. That translated into a relatively pared back (at least for Yamagishi) and bijou collection that included oversized flocked denim jackets, softly marled tailoring, and a Chanel tweed-inspired jacket made from knitted black cotton. Flourishes of Bed j.w. Ford glamour came through in the metallic brocade scarves, glittery socks and a shock of scarlet tailoring.
Something completely new for the brand was polka dots, which appeared on neckties and sheer shirts. Close inspection revealed that each little dot was rough around the edges, as though they had each been hand-drawn. Elegant indeed. What Yamagishi doesn’t say with words, he says with clothes.